테크노크라티, 딜리셔스 이 두가지의 신기한 물건을 오가면서 한 일이주를 보낸것같다.?하는 공부와?관련된 검색어들을 찾아보며 분주히 마우스 버튼을 눌러본 결과, 특이한, 아니 어찌보면 당연한 결과가 모니터에 덜렁 남고 말았다. 영어권의 Observer(다수의 그라픽디자인 칼럼니스트들이 줄창 써대는 문화비평 블로그)나 Things Magazine(영국 RCA디자인사과정 프로젝트)과 같은 블로그를 기반으로 한 다양한 정보의 공유와 그를 통한 지식의 재생산이 우리나라의 블로그에서는 관찰되지 않고, 딜리셔스나 테크노크라티 대부분의 링크들은 웹디자이너(현업 웹디자이너분들이 아무래도 블로그를 운영하는 경우가 많기 때문에)의 링크가 대부분이라는 것. 검색중에 또하나 발견한 것은 디자인+이론+담론… 등과 같은 한글 검색어로 웹 정보들을 긁어보면 태반이 온라인 도서사이트의 책소개 페이지로 연결된다는 거다. 이점은 어찌보면 디자인도서 판매가 잘되는건가.. 하고 착각할 수도 있지만, 한편으로는 그만큼 온라인상에 띄워져있는 특정 정보의 양이 모자란다는 것을 증명하는 것이 아닐지.?
온라인 정보는 나름의 단점과 장점을 가지고있다. 보관의 방법, 검색의 용이성, 자료의 정확도, 신뢰성과 관련된 수많은 논란들이 있지만,?비교적 온라인 정보교류의 방법이 효과적이라고 볼 수 있는 부분들 중 하나로서?’담론 만들기와 나누기’의 기능을 들 수 있을것같다. 실제로 테크노크라티나 딜리셔스의 경우와 같은 툴들을 통해 그런 역할들은 증폭될 수 있음은 대형사건과 관련된 영어권 블로그의 사례를 통해 확인된 바 있다. 특히 디자인과 관련된 Observer나 Things Magazine과 같은 영어권 웹사이트들은 이미 딜리셔스나 테크노크라티와 같은 ‘인터넷 기술자’들의 전유물처럼 들리는 고차원적 서비스에 이미 단골 사이트로 수십, 수백명이상의 사용자에게 링크되어있다.
우리나라에서 정보화에 관한 논의는 어느 분야에서건 서서히 증가되어왔지만 효과적인 도구로서의 의미라기보다는 고차원적인 장난감이나 선전도구로서 받아들여져왔음을 부인할 수 없다. 우리나라는 정부가 줄창 선전해왔듯 세계최고품질의 기간통신망과 하드웨어시설을 곳곳에 구비한지 이미 오래이며, (관련분야 종사자로서 확언하건데) 제일 많은 수의 웹디자이너들이 있는 나라임에도 불구하고 이렇다할 대표적인 디자인 학술저널이 없다는건 불균형적인 현상이 아닐 수 없다. 딜리셔스인지 뭔지는 솔직히 별로 중요한 얘기가 아니다. 디자인과 관련된 사람으로서 무언가 말하려한다면 그것을 효과적으로 전달할 수 있는 방법을 잘 찾아야만 할거같다는거다. 이미 인터넷은 잡탕밥처럼 뒤섞여가고 있는데, 아직까지 미적거리고만 있는건 정말 위험한 일.?한 공부한다는 학자분들이 학회나 세미나 대신 체신머리없이 인터넷에 뛰어들기를 주저한다면 디자이너들이라도 나설 수 있어야 한다고 본다. 그래서 생각했다.
즐겨찾는 애드버스터에서 연결연결하여 들어간 ‘검은점 스니커즈’라는 곳을 영국 인디펜던트지에서 소개한 기사이다.. 너무 길어서 아직 번역할 엄두는 안나지만 “반 세계화진영에서 신발산업에도 진출했다!”고 하니 관심있는 분들은 함 둘러보시라.. 애드버스터도 재미나다. 강추!
아뭏든,, 절대 긁어오기는 안할려고 했드만 이번에도 텍스트 수집의 압박으로 인해.. ^^ 죄송..-_-
Kicking against the system
With the launch of the Black Spot sneaker, anti-globalisation activists are entering the sports-shoe business. Their mission: to beat Nike at its own game. Can they succeed without betraying their radical ideals? Iain Aitch reports
15 December 2003
The journal of choice for the anti-globalisation movement, Adbusters, has been sniping at the corporate world since way back in the Eighties. On its pages you’ll find subtly defaced versions of ads for well-known brands and photographs of vandalised billboards.
But the publication has now gone one step further, moving from words and pictures to a far more direct form of confrontation. Kalle Lasn, Adbusters’ founder and a man usually more at home in sandals than trainers, says his magazine’s plan is to take on the global sportswear giant Nike at its own game by manufacturing a sneaker to rival one of the corporation’s most popular brands.
” We thought, “What the hell, let’s cut into [Nike chief executive] Phil Knight’s market share,” he says. “Let’s launch a brand of our own, make that brand cooler than Nike and escalate the cat-and-mouse game that the activist community has been playing with Knight over the last 10 years.”
Lasn seems serious, and not a little personal, about sticking it to Knight, as the first advertisement for the soon-to-be-launched Adbusters shoe makes clear. Dubbed “the Black Spot sneaker” and “the unswoosher”, the advert claims that the shoe is “designed for only one thing: kicking Phil’s ass”. To ram the point home, the design shows something that looks a dead ringer for the Nike-owned Converse Chuck Taylor shoe.
” We realised that the smartest strategic move is to choose something we like that is already out there, that we know that we can get a factory to give us,” Lasn says. “And when we heard that Nike had actually purchased Converse, we decided to come up with a replica of the Converse. All we are doing is putting our own brand on it.”
The (anti-) branding in question will consist of a simple large black spot where the Nike swoosh or the Converse logo would usually be. Its use follows a series of protests against brands, encouraged by Adbusters, whereby black spots have been stickered or painted over Nike, Gap and Starbucks logos. Lasn believes that the launch of the shoe will give publicity to this campaign, as well as providing activists with an ethically-produced aid to making a run for it should they be caught in the act.
” It was inspired by Robert Louis Stevenson,” Lasn says. “If you give someone the black spot, it is the kiss of death; somebody presses this little piece of paper in your palm and you realise that you are destined to die. We are black-spotting Phil Knight’s logo. I think that if we are successful with our sneaker, other people will repeat the experiment against other corporations. And if we can prove that it works it will be a prototype to be used in other industries and could well be a movement that leads capitalism into that bottom-up direction.”
Lasn’s decision to target Converse is best understood by examining the history of this iconic brand. From James Dean through The Ramones to Kurt Cobain and the anti-globalisation protesters, the Converse basketball shoe (and boot) has long been the default footwear for rebels with or without a cause. With its simple styling, canvas uppers and low price, the shoe passed on from rockers and hippies to punks and skaters, along the way becoming the trainer you wore if you were conscientiously shunning the likes of Nike and Adidas. One thing fashion-magazine stylists and anti-fashion anarchists agreed on was that Converse sneakers were cool.
But then the brand was hoovered up by the Nike empire. Keen to cash in on Converse’s retro cool and its historic association with basketball, which stretches back to the 1920s, Nike bought the brand in July for a reported $305m (£175m). Within hours of the announcement, activist message-boards and websites were vowing boycotts. But many were also asking: “What do we wear now?” Since Converse hit financial trouble in 2001, production of the shoes had been outsourced from North Carolina to Asia, although that fact seemed to have escaped most activists. There was, however, a real sense of betrayal about this deal. Not since Unilever’s acquisition of Ben & Jerry’s ice cream had the good guys so instantly become the bad guys.
Lasn is confident that hordes of disaffected Converse-wearers will now switch allegiance to his alternative footwear. But, in spite of pledges that production will be ethically and environmentally sound, and assurances that the profits will largely be ploughed back into activism, the idea of Adbusters getting into brand creation and shoe sales has not gone down well with some readers. The fact that the Black Spot’s launch this spring will be heralded by a costly campaign of full-page ads in The New York Times as well as billboards and slots on CNN has been the final straw for some, and activist websites have seen heated debate, accusations of “selling out” and stories of cancelled magazine subscriptions.
Many argue that an ethical shoe selling for $45 is better than those produced by the major brands or the unbranded varieties from street markets. But the idea of a magazine supposedly opposed to advertising getting into bed with the admen to the tune of at least $250,000 has been a stumbling block. There is also the fact that the Black Spot “brand” has, so far, been built by campaigners taking direct action against billboards and storefronts, so putting it on a shoe is somehow diluting its power.
One activist who thinks the Black Spot sneaker may not be such a bad idea is Mick Duncan of the anti-sweatshop group No Sweat (who, coincidentally, is wearing Converses when I speak to him). “Things like that are good at raising the issue,” he says. “Because if companies like Gap and Nike say, ‘How can we improve standards?’ and small companies like Adbusters can do that, then there is no reason why companies with millions of dollars can’t do the same.”
Lucy Michaels of the campaign group Corporate Watch has more mixed feelings. She is surprised that the shoe is being launched using a marketing strategy based on Adbusters’ reputation among activists. “While the anti-swoosh marketing idea is genius, it’s still a marketing idea to make us choose one product over another,” she says. “We can choose the red shoe or the blue shoe or the fairly-traded shoe. If we really want to make the world a fairer place and end exploitation, we have to question the underlying structure by which we produce and consume.”
But staff at Adbusters seem unaffected by the sceptics and the naysayers. Lasn, citing the magazine’s anarchist roots, says that pleasing readers or doing what is expected of him is never what it has been about, even going so far as suggesting that if his readers don’t like it, they can “go and read another book by Naomi Klein”.
” We have had a bunch of people phoning us up or e-mailing and saying, ‘What the hell do you think you are doing? I believed in you guys and you seem to be selling out’,” Lasn says. “But even when we started more than 10 years ago, we were an organisation that didn’t like the political left and were disillusioned with feminism and even environmentalism and felt that these old movements had peaked and lost their spark. This is why we launched this movement of culture jamming, and now we feel that all the Naomi Kleins and the old lefties who were analysing and talking – they are actually doing fuck all. They are just whining and talking. Here is a chance for us to come up with a brand that empowers people, that cuts into Nike’s share, something more than just a pesky irritation for a guy like Phil Knight.” (So far, about 2,000 orders have been received for the shoes, which amounts to $90,000 in pre-sales.)
But whether Lasn has the full support of the anti-globalisation movement or not, a question mark remains as to whether he can actually make a go of his new career as shoe salesman. To dent Nike’s market share and raise enough revenue for yet more advertising, the Black Spot sneaker will need (excuse the expression) to hit the floor running. It will then need to keep running if Lasn’s dreams of funding advertising campaigns with politics to the fore and the shoes as an afterthought are to come to fruition. The initial run of 10,000 pairs of shoes planned for early next year will only really pay for set-up costs. Lasn will need to sell hundreds of thousands if he is to even to start to worry Nike, and that means it will need to become something more than merely a refusenik shoe. It will need to become accepted as stylish, even fashionable.
Peter Shaw, a director of the brand consultants Corporate Edge, feels that Lasn may have something of a battle on his hands if he is to turn Black Spot into a successful brand, saying that it is one thing for people to want to wear a protest T-shirt and another for them to apply the same thinking to their feet.
” I think it is perfectly plausible for Adbusters to do that, but if you create a brand purely on the basis of an agenda it is going to have a fairly limited audience,” he says. “There are large numbers of protesters against the World Trade Organisation, but in terms of purchases of footwear it is a tiny minority.
” The real issue here will be whether the shoe is any good. Whatever you say about image and style and the emotive reasons to buy a brand, if the brand really doesn’t deliver in quality, then people won’t buy again. That is stretched in fashion, but you still wouldn’t buy an Armani suit if it was useless quality.”
Lasn assures me that the Black Spot will be of the highest quality, though it will obviously require more than just that for the project to take a healthy bite out Nike’s share of the sportswear market, which brought the company $10.7bn in income last year. The shoe may be designed to “kick Phil’s ass”, but Lasn will have to take a long hike up the sales ladder before he can even take a decent swing at his enemy’s backside. And, with the razor-sharp business acumen and amount of advertising that will need, who’s to say that the Black Spot billboards themselves won’t become the target of activists weilding spray-paint and logo-obliterating stickers?
